The Science of Nature Aquariums

Understanding what’s going on in your tank will help you provide the optimal environment for your fish and plants.

The Nitrification Cycle

When organics starts to build up in the form of fish waste, uneaten food or decaying plant life, toxic ammonia levels becomes harmful to fish. Thanks to mother nature, two kinds of bacteria convert the toxic ammonia to harmless nitrate (NO3), a chemical that fish can tolerate at moderate levels in an aquarium. These bacteria grow inside the filter system and require an abundant supply of oxygen to convert ammonia to NO3. A typical new tank will take around three to four weeks for the ammonia level to go down to zero. Only when ammonia levels are at zero is it safe to introduce fish into the Nature Aquarium.

Essential Water Chemistry for Plants

pH measures whether water is acidic or alkaline. For example, lemon juice is acidic and deep well water is alkaline. A pH of 7 is neutral, pH below 7 is acidic and above 7 is alkaline. Plants benefit from slightly acidic water conditions. The best pH value for aquatic plants is around 6.4. gH measures the general hardness of water. When you take a shower in hard water (like deep well water or brackish water near the sea), it is difficult for soap or shampoo to produce bubbles; on the other hand, in soft water soap feels slippery on your skin and difficult to remove. gH includes all dissolved solids, but we are most interested in the total calcium and magnesium in the water. Calcium and magnesium are important to plant growth. In most cases, a gH value of 4 is best. gH also includes carbonate hardness (kH), which measures the amount of carbonate ions and is directly related to the ability to maintain stable pH in the water. The more kH ions available, the less pH fluctuates in the Nature Aquarium. The presence of kH also makes it easy for plants to absorb CO2, which is usually introduced in the form of calcium carbonate. However, it’s possible to have a very gH and a very low kH when the water does not contain any carbonates, but other forms of dissolved solids. The best value kH is 4 for aquatic plants. Scientists have discovered that values of pH and kH determine total CO2 concentration. A pH value of 6.4 and kH value of 4 provide the highest concentration of CO2 (33ppm). CO2 concentration starts to climb as the kH value increases, and peaks at a value of 4. As kH goes beyond the value of 4, the CO2 concentration starts to decrease again.

As much as possible, we want calcium and magnesium to be the only solids that will contribute to water hardness, as they are what promote to plant growth. To achieve this, we usually use a reverse osmosis system to remove all dissolved solids first and then add back the carbonates in the form of calcium carbonate, and magnesium in the form of magnesium sulfate (Epsom salts). This way, we have total control of the kH and gH in the Nature Aquarium and we know that the only dissolved solids are in the form of calcium and magnesium.

Nitrate is a plant nutrient and a byproduct of the nitrification cycle (the process in which beneficial bacteria converts organic waste into nitrates). Too much nitrate will cause an imbalance of nutrients in the system, which can trigger an algae bloom. (If this happens, it can easily be resolved by techniques in algae prevention and removal.) Nitrate should be at a maximum of 30ppm to avoid algae problems. However, many need to dose nitrate daily because the plants absorb it all during the photoperiod.

Phosphate is a plant nutrient that comes mostly from fish food. Phosphate is required for root development and plant growth; however, excessive phosphates will also result in an unwanted algae bloom. Phosphate should have a maximum value of 2ppm.

Iron is an important plant nutrient that keeps plant leaves a deep green, and it also enhances the tone of red-leaved plants.

How Do We Measure Water Chemistry?

We offers a whole range of test kits that will give you accurate readings of your aquarium’s water chemistry. These tests are used by comparing the colours inside the test vials against a supplied colour chart. we offers Pack Checkers for pH, TH (total hardness that includes gH and kH), NO2 (nitrite), NH4 (ammonium), NO3 (nitrate), PO4 (phosphate), CIO (chlorine residue) and COD (chemical oxygen demand). A summary of the purpose of these tests is shown in the table below.

Using other brands of testing kit has different methodology. I received the most number of questions regarding the use of API gH test kit from my customers because the test kit expires after two years it has been manufactured. Expired test kit does not change color that much. The manufacturing lot number of the test kit is printed on the top of the bottle just over the label and the last 4 numbers will be the month and year it was bottled. If it’s over 2 years or so, it is expired and colors do not develop properly. Please see this video to see how the color really changes from orange to green.

Plant Health

Aside from checking water chemistry, you can also observe the plants inside your Nature Aquarium for symptoms of deficiencies. These symptoms will let you know whether to start dosing certain plant nutrients. The chart below will give you some idea of how to spot deficiencies and how to treat them.

Adding ADA Brighty Series Plant Nutrients ADA offers a complete line of plant nutrients that will promote plant growth. These are used at various stages in the establishment of your Nature Aquarium. Please see the recommended dosing from ADA. Note that during the initial four weeks of your setup, you should use half the dosage. If these instructions are followed diligently, your plants shouldn’t experience any nutrient deficiencies.

• Week 1 – Brighty K
• Week 2 – Brighty K and Step 1
• Week 12 – Brighty K and Step 2, add ECA
• Week 56 and beyond – Brighty K and Step 3

ADA Green Bacter is an additive made from organic acid and designed to promote the growth of filtration bacteria. It is effective for the aquarium in its initial setup period and after a regular water change.

ADA Green Gain is an additive that helps the plant spread new leaves after trimming. It contains trace elements extracted from seaweed and plant hormones. It reduces plants’ stress and enhances their growth.

ADA Phyton Git is a formula produced mainly from a sterilizing ingredient extracted from plants. It suppresses fern disease and is effective in removing blue-green algae.

ADA ECA contains rich iron and organic acid promoting the nutrient absorption process of plants. It is highly recommended for treating plant colour-loss.

The dreaded algae problem. What hobbyist hasn’t encountered it? But you do not have to experience algae in your Nature Aquarium.

Algae usually appears when there is an imbalance in nutrients, water circulation, CO2, oxygen and light. Too many nutrients and too little CO2 will cause algae to appear. On the other hand, too much light but too few nutrients and CO2 will also cause algae. Many hobbyists think that lowering nitrates and phosphates (which are nutrients) will reduce algae outbreaks, when algae actually thrives in a low-nutrient environment.

These are the main reasons why algae appears:

1. Not enough beneficial bacteria in a new setup

Algae typically appears in the first couple of months of a new setup. This is because a newly established Nature Aquarium does not have enough beneficial bacteria to convert ammonia through the nitrification cycle. The overabundance of ammonia will cause algae blooms. Algae will cover most part of the plants, blocking light and depriving the plants of nutrients. Plants will eventually die.

ADA substrate foundation PowerSand and five essential additives (Bacter 100, Tourmaline BC, Clear Super, Penac P and Penac W) are the main ingredients needed to jumpstart the growth of beneficial bacteria in a Nature Aquarium.

We like to start a new Nature Aquarium using the immerse method. While you do not need to follow this procedure, it will help prevent an early algae bloom, and give your foreground plants optimal conditions to become established.

This is the immerse method:

Build the substrate foundation using ADA PowerSand and add the five essential elements. Then put down a layer of ADA AquaSoil before filling the Nature Aquarium with water up to the top of the soil and planting it with foreground plants. Do not fill the aquarium with water yet; cover the Nature Aquarium with stretch film to retain the moisture inside. Provide enough light for a duration of eight to ten hours a day. Watch the foreground grow for the next two months, and do not add water.

After 2 months, beneficial bacteria will now be living inside the substrate and will be in a sufficient supply to convert excess ammonia to nitrate. At this time, you may now fill the Nature Aquarium with water. Make sure to use tepid water: icy cold water may harm the foreground plants that were planted. Do several full water changes to ensure removal of any trace of nutrients in the water column which may cause an algae bloom.

2. Insufficient water circulation

To ensure the nutrients and CO2 circulate throughout the aquarium and reach all the plants, it is important to have strong water flow. The flow rate should be five to eight times the Nature Aquarium volume. Choose a filter system with the right flow rate or supplement it with circulation pumps. When plants have sufficient access to the nutrients and CO2, they leave little remaining in the water column for algae to use.

3. Insufficient surface agitation

Surface agitation will add oxygen to the system and will prevent surface scum from forming. However, too much surface agitation will also offgas the injected CO2. We suggest the use of an air pump to supply surface agitation, but only when the lights are turned off.

Plants breathe in CO2 when the lights are on and begin using oxygen as soon as the lights are turned off. When this happens and there is lack of oxygen in the system, plants, fish and beneficial bacteria fight for the dwindling oxygen. The first to suffer is the beneficial bacteria, which will die off, resulting in increased ammonia and, eventually, algae blooms. Thus the appropriate oxygen level is as important as CO2 supply.

During the summer when temperatures are higher, beneficial bacteria activity increases and demands more oxygen. It is very important to increase surface agitation when temperatures rise.

4. Imbalanced light levels, CO2 concentration and nutrients

The rate at which plants absorb CO2 and nutrients depends on the amount of light provided. The more light, the more CO2 and nutrients plants need. In most cases, we provide too much light but do not measure the CO2 concentration and nutrient availability, and often, we haven’t supplied enough of either. When this happens, algae blooms will appear. Make sure that you measure the water chemistry when the lights are turned on and when they are turned off. This will give you an idea of whether you need to increase or decrease your CO2 and nutrient dosing.

As a rule of thumb, we would like to achieve a pH of 6.4 and kH of 4 to get the maximum CO2 concentration of 30ppm. NO3 and PO4 can be dosed daily to attain an optimum concentration of 30ppm and 2ppm respectively.

5. Improper aquarium substrate, filter and plant maintenance

When this regular maintenance is ignored, organic matter starts to build up in the substrate and filter media. Regular light substrate vacuuming and cleaning of the filter media will decrease accumulated organic waste, which can clog the system and increase ammonia. Light vacuuming will also aerate the substrate, which helps plant roots get oxygen, and also helps beneficial bacteria convert ammonia to the nitrate that becomes food for the plants.

Decaying leaves generate ammonia. Trimming plants of dead leaves will eliminate the ammonia source and promote new growth.

A regular water change of 10% every week is encouraged.

6. Not enough shrimp, algae-eating fish or snails

Takashi Amano introduced Japonica shrimp to the Nature Aquarium and thus they have become known as Japonica Amano shrimp. These shrimp are very good at controlling hair algae as well as consuming uneaten fish food and breaking down fish waste into smaller particles that beneficial bacteria can feed on. Shrimp also eat certain bacteria and other micro-organisms, preventing these from overpopulating and creating an unbalanced system. We advise two Amano shrimp per gallon of Nature Aquarium volume.

Trumpet snails are helpful in aerating the substrate. However, they tend to multiply rapidly so make sure you keep their population under control.

So-called “sucker fish” such as otocinclus, small baby plecos or ancistrus are very good at cleaning diatoms and bacteria from plant leaves, decorative stones and driftwood. If you decide to get plecos or ancistrus, make sure to rehome them appropriately when they become too big for the system. See the sequence of Ancistrus cleaning a stone.

True Siamese algae eaters will consume black beard algae and hair algae. However, they can grow to a size of more than 14cm and can become very aggressive towards other fish, so they are not appropriate for all aquarium setups.

Identifying Algae and How to Eradicate It

Cloudy/Milky Water

This is not actually a type of algae, but a bacteria bloom. It usually happens when the tank is new or the substrate disturbed, and excess nutrients are released into the Nature Aquarium. When this happens, the bacteria population explodes exponentially and results in a cloudy or “milky” appearance, which is bacteria floating in the water.

Change the water, wait it out, and the bacteria bloom will disappear in a few days.

Green Water

Green water is an excess of tiny organisms called phytoplankton, which are part of the algae family. Green water is usually caused by high ammonia levels combined with too much light. It often occurs during the summer when the temperature is warmer, or if you have placed your Nature Aquarium near a window that has a prolonged photoperiod in the summer.

Obstruct any unwanted light, perform a water change, and use a UV filter clarifier.

Brown Algae (Diatoms)

Brown algae (or diatoms) is neither bacteria nor algae. It appears when there are excessive silicates coming from the substrate or from decorative stones, combined with a low-light condition. It can also come from the water source.

Remove as much as you can using a toothbrush and a narrow siphon hose. Change the substrate, use clean reverse osmosis water, and add fish that will each these algae, such as otos, plecos or ancistrus.

Green Dust Algae

Green dust algae appears when CO2 and nutrients are low.

Wipe off as much as you can and increase CO2 and nutrient levels. Wait out its life cycle.

Green Spot Algae

Green spot algae appears when CO2 and phosphate are low.

Remove using a blade scraper and increase CO2/phosphate levels.

Both Green Dust Algae and Green Spot Algae are most commonly seen on the inside walls of aquarium tanks. These algae develop during the initial installation period of an aquarium as well as on the glass surface and white diffusion filter of POLLEN GLASS in a mature aquarium.

Remove the algae growing on aquarium tank walls with an ADA PRO RAZOR, and then change the aquarium water. When you use a Pro Razor near the substrate area of the layout, be cautious not to let sand get in between the blade and the glass surface. Sand can easily scratch the glass.

Brown Algae, Dust and Green Spot Algae can be reduced significantly by introducing a team of Ancistrus (‘sucker fish’). See how a team of Ancistrus clean a stone in just two hours.

You can remove green algae accumulated on the diffusion filter of a POLLEN GLAS with SUPERGE, ADA’s glassware cleaning agent

Be sure to watch “How to Clean a POLLEN GLASS” on our maintenance section.

Blue-Green Algae

Blue-green algae is a form of bacteria and not an algae. It will cover a large surface area if not treated immediately. It is caused by low nitrates in a high-light environment.

To remove blue-green algae, use ADA Phyton Git or a generic brand erythromycin antibiotic. Increase nitrate levels to prevent it from reappearing.

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Hair/Thread Algae

This algae usually appears when CO2 and nutrient levels are very low, and light is excessive.

Remove as much as possible using a toothbrush and a narrow siphon hose. Then increase CO2 and nutrient levels.

Staghorn Algae

Low CO2 and/or fluctuating CO2 levels usually cause staghorn algae to appear.

Remove as much as possible using a toothbrush and increase CO2 concentration.

Black Beard Algae (BBA)

The hardest algae to remove. Black beard algae is caused by high Nitrate levels combined with fluctuating and/or low CO2. Slow-growing aquatic plants are more vulnerable to the algae problem than the fast growing kinds. A group of plants in the Anubias family is a good example. When diatom algae, which are often seen on Anubias’ leaf surfaces during the initial aquarium installation period, are not removed properly, green algae may start spreading over the diatom algae.

– ADA Phyton-Git Method for BBA algae on Anubias

In case a large amount of BBA growing on Anubias leaves, lower down water level until Anubias leaves are exposed then apply a diluted PHYTON-GIT solution using a paint brush. Add water back to the Nature Aquarium after 5 minutes.

*Do NOT apply PHYTON-GIT to any other aquatic plants.

– ADA Phyton-Git Method for BBA algae on layout stones and driftwood

Black and tough beard-like algae growing on stones and driftwood can be seen in the aquarium with a high nitrate level. Please pay close attention and take care of them before they become unmanageable. After scraping off algae with PRO-PICKER, release Siamese Flying Fox and Caridina japonica in the aquarium. If the condition is critical, remove

water from the aquarium, and cover the affected area of stones / driftwood with a paper towel, soaked with several drops of PHYTON-GIT, overnight. Then, fill the aquarium with water in a usual manner.

– SeaChem Excel Method

Remove as much as possible by pruning infected leaves. Introduce Siamese algae eaters if appropriate for your aquarium, and dose Seachem Excel to increase CO2 levels. Follow dosage as prescribed on the bottle. Use half dosage of Seachem Excel if you have shrimps in your tank. Turn off all filter pumps and water current during treatment for 20 minutes. You can use a syringe to target treatment heavily infect BBA areas.

– Hydrogen Peroxide Method

Same method as Excel. Turn off all filter pumps and water current during treatment for 20 minutes. You can use a syringe to target treatment heavily infect BBA areas. Use hydrogen Peroxide 3% solution (obtained in any drug stores). Use 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per liter of tank water.

Steps in Maintaining Your Nature Aquarium

Daily

• Clean aquarium glass and remove algae if needed
• Top up water level
• Add nutrients/minerals
• Check CO2 bubbles per minute output

Weekly

• Clean aquarium glass and remove algae
• Trim all tall stem plants and remove the ones that have floated
• Trim all ground cover and middle ground plants
• Change 10% water
• Top up water level
• Check water chemistry
• Add nutrients/minerals
• Check CO2 bubbles per minute output

Monthly

This might look like a lot of work. It’s not. Once you get comfortable with the equipment, the process doesn’t take too much time at all. If you want in-person instruction, or prefer to have an expert handle your Nature Aquarium maintenance for you, Wetland Aquatic will gladly provide this service.

• Secure/clean thermometer
• Remove CO2 diffuser and let it soak in ADA SuperGE; leave it soaking while you continue working on other things
• TClean aquarium glass and remove algae
• Trim all tall stem plants and remove the ones that have floated
• Turn off filter pumps, heater, surface skimmer
• Close filter pump in/out hose connection to prevent water flow
• Gently remove output lily pipe and place inside bucket
• Open filter pump in/out hose to allow water to start flowing into bucket
• Remove 25% of aquarium water (max)
• Save the aquarium water inside bucket (you will use this later for rinsing the filter media)
• Trim all ground cover and middle ground plants
• Remove all floating plants and discard
• Remove filter hose assembly from filter equipment to give you extra length to remove lily pipes
• Remove lily pipes from hose
• Remove filter hose assembly with hose attached to it
• Clean lily pipes using ADA Spring Washer
• If still difficult to remove algae, soak in ADA SuperGE
• Clean filter hose using a long pipe brush
• Reconnect filter hose to filter hose assembly
• Remove filter equipment and clean filter media in the saved aquarium water
• Reassemble filter equipment, lily pipes, etc.
• Add water, prime filter
• Use a syringe to blow air into the CO2 diffuser to dislodge anything that may be clogging the diffuser
• Reconnect CO2 diffuser to the CO2 system
• Turn on filter, heater, surface skimmer
• Check water chemistry
• Add nutrients/minerals
• Check CO2 bubbles per minute output.

Fish Dying

Check pH, kH, ammonia and nitrite levels. Ammonia and nitrite should be kept zero at all times because they are very toxic to fish.

While there is an ideal pH and kH value to achieve, make any adjustments slowly so as not to cause fish further stress.

Parasites or viruses can be introduced by new fish. Quarantining new fish in a separate tank for a period of two-four weeks is recommended.

Cloudy Water NOT from Bacteria or Algae

Suspended solids (small particles) such as clay or other materials can cause water to be turbid or cloudy. While these particles may eventually settle, you can choose to use coagulant chemicals to bind these small particles into larger particles, which eventually get trapped into the filter system. If you use this method, make sure to rinse the filter media when water has cleared up.

Oily Surface

Surface scum is caused by organic protein build-up when you inject carbon dioxide into the Nature Aquarium. The use of ADA Vuppa will remove unsightly surface scum. You can also introduce air bubbles with a bubble wand when the lights and CO2 system are turned off.

Plants Dying

See our guide to plant health. Click here

CARING FOR YOUR FISH :

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

Without a source of good clean water, fish or aquatic plants will not survive. It is important to determine the quality of the water on hand as a baseline in order to provide a healthy tank environment.

CYCLE YOUR TANK

A common mistake made by new fish keepers is buying both the tank and fish on the same day. New tanks require time to establish the growth of the beneficial bacteria that break down the wastes removed from the water by chemical and mechanical filtration. This is establishing what is known as the Nitrogen Cycle, also known as the start-up cycle or biological cycle.

TIME FOR SCHOOL

Congratulations on getting your tank set up! Now it is time to stock it. Basic care involves researching and choosing the right fish for your tank. Some species of fish do better in schools while others are more solitary. A crowded tank may result in increased aggression, stress, disease, and unhealthy conditions for the inhabitants.

FEEDING

All pets need appropriate food and nutrition. Fish do well when their feeding schedule mimics the availability of food in the wild, namely multiple small meals throughout the day. A varied diet is healthiest. Pellets, tabs, flakes, freeze dried, frozen and live foods should all be offered.

STRESS & ILLNESS

Everyone knows that stress is bad. Fish can feel stress just like we can. Left unchecked, stress can lead to illness in fish. It can weaken the immune system, leaving them open to bacterial, fungal or parasitic infections. There are a variety of antibiotics, antifungals, and anti-parasitic medications available online or at most pet stores.

Clean water, a healthy diet, and a stress-free tank are the best ways to prevent illness in fish.

YOU CAN DO IT

Once your tank is established and stocked, the average time required for routine care and maintenance time could be as little as an hour per week, depending on the tank size.

A pet requires a clean, safe, and stress-free living environment and it is your responsibility to provide one.